Almost As Good

August 14, 2006
4:49 AM CST

If this carries on, I’ll have to open a department called “Righteous Slashings”. From several Readers:

It was just are 3:30 Wednesday morning when a Minneapolis apartment dweller was forced to defend himself and his property with a sword.

Police say they got a call from residents of the 3100 block of Lyndale Avenue South that four people had forced their way into a residence.

According to police, once the burglars were inside, they got into a fight with one of the residents who grabbed his roommates sword and started slashing the intruders. His feisty attack send the invaders running, but not before he wounded several.

That’s good stuff. This is better:

Shortly after Minneapolis police arrived, they were called by doctors at the hospital about the arrival of three people to the ER with severed fingers and lacerations.

Buy that man a beer.

I think I’ll find me a sword and keep it next to the bed (alongside the shotgun, maybe, so I have a choice).

Any suggestions for a decent sword? Type? Length? (links only, no pics please)

-----------------------------

Update: Remember, I said a sword. I already have a couple of errrrr interesting large knives, such as this one (pictured next to a 1911 for scale):

Comments

Bottom of Comments | Original Post

For in-house duty, I’d say something like a cutlass would fit. As it was used largely by seamen for ship-to-ship and in-ship combat, it’s nice and short for hallway maneuvering.

And, if they get close, just hit ‘em with your pommel-encased fist.

A bit spendy, however: http://www.mwart.com/xq/ASP.product/pid.779/qx/pirate-cutlass-sword.htm

I imagine you could find something less ornate which would funciton just as equally as a cleaving device.

FWIW, a cutlass would be one of my picks as a “blade” for the “Crossing America” series.

Also: consider a pike to suppliment the cutlass!

Author ID: 8152 | 8/14/2006 04:59 AM CST | #68514


My recommendation would be a Wakizashi (effectively a shortened version of the japanese Katana, or “samurai sword"). It’s extremely sharp, useful for both slashing and thrusting, and like the cutlass usable with one hand (.45 in the other anyone?). Also, the blade is ideal for close quarters as it’s only approx 1.5 feet long. The only drawback is cost. A quality copy can run $400-500, which is getting into the higher end used gun range.

Author ID: 8598 | 8/14/2006 05:24 AM CST | #68516


K du T:

i was going to suggest a roman gladius; like the cutlass it’s short and heavy, can slash and stab.

being a Marine officer, i’d reach for my mameluke though…

jpp

Author ID: 7843 | 8/14/2006 05:25 AM CST | #68517


A bayonet! On the end of a big f*cking rifle!

(bang, bang, stab stab stabbity stab. Bang).

If you don’t mind getting too up close and personal: http://www.wholesaleknives.co.uk/kukri.htm

Author ID: 7732 | 8/14/2006 05:32 AM CST | #68518


Cold steel makes a number of fancy blades. I believe their website is http://www.coldsteel.com, but I can’t verify that at work.

Author ID: 319 | 8/14/2006 05:54 AM CST | #68519


Machete works fine, and is scary looking for psychological value.

Author ID: 2900 | 8/14/2006 05:54 AM CST | #68520


Ditto The Katana/Wakizashi combo.

Whatever you pick, you want good steel that can take a bashing and hold a decent edge, a slight curve to the blade, a blade length between 18"-29", a “hand and a half” handle that can accommodate a two fisted grip if needed, and a weight that’s manageable.

Museum Replicas has a decent selection of many different types:

http://www.museumreplicas.com/webstore/home.aspx

Author ID: 188 | 8/14/2006 05:59 AM CST | #68522


The Scottish parliament got wind of this, so immediately banned swords in order to prevent victims of crime from defending themselves:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/...est/4788881.stm

I’m sure this will be just as effective as banning handguns has proved


Author ID: 7103 | 8/14/2006 06:13 AM CST | #68524


I also suggest a gladius, although a good sized bayonet or trench shovel would also work.

Kris Cutlery makes a good gladius. Cold steel makes a good shovel (although you can save money buying it from someone other than cold steel.  Pick up a bayonet surplus.

Author ID: 947 | 8/14/2006 06:16 AM CST | #68525


Real swords can run into some real money.  Fortunately, there are companies producing lower-priced real swords that can actually be used as, well… swords.  Here is a link to such a company.  To save more cash, you can select a model that does not have traditional fittings but retains the properties of a real blade:

http://www.kriscutlery.com

If you want the sword to be for anything beyond decoration, don’t buy a cheap stainless steel one.  Most are dangerous for the wrong reasons.

Author ID: 803 | 8/14/2006 06:24 AM CST | #68526


These are the real thing not just pretty replicas. Not that there is anything wrong with pretty replicas but they are NOT ment to defend ones self with. These can be.

Some of the best productions swords in North America Made in the USA:

http://www.albion-swords.com/swords.htm

One of the best swordsmiths in the world, his stuff is in museums around the world.

http://www.templ.net/weapons/middleage_and_modern_age.php#B17

And more…
http://www.myarmoury.com/collections.html

Author ID: 6558 | 8/14/2006 06:25 AM CST | #68528


If you wanted to spend the price of two decent 1911’s on a sword, I’d suggest an Angel Sword.  I have a rapier and a basket-hilt claymore that Mr. Watson and crew built.  They’re in Driftwood, TX IIRC. 

He also makes katanas and wakizashis in the traditional way.  They’ll cleave lesser blades.

http://www.angelsword.com

Author ID: 1906 | 8/14/2006 06:32 AM CST | #68529


The short swords have been dealt with in the comments above.

Why not a battle-axe or a mace/morning star also?

Author ID: 8549 | 8/14/2006 06:36 AM CST | #68530


severed fingers

That’s what they get when they try to play Hollywood with a real sword and you grab it.

Author ID: 2187 | 8/14/2006 07:02 AM CST | #68533


A Naval boarding Cutlass.  Small yet sharp. Good for close in fighting.  Maybe a daggar in the other hand.

http://www.antiquesofthesea.com/1336_sword.html

Roscoe

Author ID: 8599 | 8/14/2006 07:10 AM CST | #68535


any small axe (esp a cold steel) would work quite well. In the limited swinging/acceleration distance you are likely to experience indoors, a heavy little axe with a sharp bludgeon on the back will do you nicely.
axes

Author ID: 8417 | 8/14/2006 07:32 AM CST | #68543


gladius++, wakazashi++.

Never wielded a cutlass before, but that sounds sensible too.  Also a real claymore (no, not the 6’ long german merc sword.  The basket-hilt variety) would do well.

Just make sure you don’t get some 440 stainless piece of garbage.  Some nice high-carbon steel you can really put a nice loving edge on

I can vouch for Angel Sword as well.  Though they tend to be pretty pricey, perhaps overly.  Nice stuff though.

DON’T go two-bladed. That’s a complicated style of fighting, without training it could be quite disastrous.

Author ID: 7799 | 8/14/2006 07:36 AM CST | #68544


I have to second 1911’s recommendation of Angel Sword. My brother is a swordsmith and armorer here in Virginia, and he apprenticed for two years at Angel Sword. Their quality is top notch.

Author ID: 2607 | 8/14/2006 07:38 AM CST | #68545


Ya know what?  I just thought of something.  Spend some time watching video of real fights, Kendo, Iaido, etc.  When I was a kid I went to watch my Sensei compete (Kendo.) I was amazed at how little motion is actually required.  Quite the eye opener from watching (and taking part in) choreographed fights.

Author ID: 7799 | 8/14/2006 07:47 AM CST | #68547


”I think I’ll find me a sword and keep it next to the bed (alongside the shotgun, maybe, so I have a choice).”

Heh. I’ve had a sharpened katana next to the bed for years. Between the katana, the 5-D cell maglight, and the four loaded handguns in the safe under the bed, any invading goblins are in for a nasty surprise…

Author ID: 19 | 8/14/2006 08:14 AM CST | #68549


Golly, you guys are scarey. 

My first thought was katana. I’d suggest a big Bowie knife as an off-hand weapon, if you wanted to go that route.

Author ID: 142 | 8/14/2006 08:14 AM CST | #68550


Kim,

You are now a Texan - only a bowie knife will do!

My favorite pattern:  http://www.thesteelsource.com/html/ac400884.htm

Best manufacturer/technique looks to be Angel Sword; I’d like to see the above pattern (can also be used as a hand axe on kindling or fibias) done by them instead of their current beautiful, but smaller-than-Texan (!) work:

http://www.angelsword.com/knives_daggers/bk-knives1.php

Careful if doing a Happy Dance with knives!  -Kilroy

Author ID: 8604 | 8/14/2006 08:17 AM CST | #68551


I know of companies that make replica (exact copies in all ways, save that they’re dated so they can’t be sold as real antiques) M1917 US Naval cutlasses.  Or you could buy a real one---they’re available through antiques dealers, and aren’t _that_ terribly expensive.  Cutlasses are designed for close quarters---see Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World for some scenes showing how they were really used.

My favorite response to someone wanting to trust a cheap sword is “And how much is your life worth, anyway?” (Same goes for cheap motorcycle helmets and cheap guns, BTW)

However---like any weapon, a sword does take some practice.  If I lived closer to an active shire, I’d be a regular at SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism) fighter practice---a lot of those gentlemen and ladies are very deadly indeed with Sharp Pointies.  It’s a free-form style that incorporates all lengths of blade, so you don’t get stuck into “well, in the dojo I’m King of the Hill, but on the street I got my a$$ kicked.”

Author ID: 7388 | 8/14/2006 08:40 AM CST | #68556


Yes sir, swords at dawn or dusk, first vote for right now, go to local army/navy surplus store buiy yourself a good machete, aobut 30 bucks take it home shapren it up, practice some close quarter work, it is very quite, how ever the goblins will make a real scene hit or missed, then whiel you work with the machete you can save up buy one of the other nice tools, many jyears ago I took my boys to the local renisance fairs spoke at length with black smiths, thwey were making some very usable carbon steel short swords, nordic double headed axes both short and long handled, about ten pounds weight, easy to sharpen looks nice on the wall fits the hand very well. stand by to repael borders and sail on.

Author ID: 7107 | 8/14/2006 08:54 AM CST | #68557


I’d think a machete or a kukri (Cold Steel or Atlanta Cutlery) would work well indoors.  In my house there’s not a lot of room to swing a sword as was discovered while playing around with a wooden practice katana, so something shortish works best.  Otherwise ceiling fans, bookcases, and pool tables are in peril.

Author ID: 324 | 8/14/2006 09:08 AM CST | #68558


If you are serious about buying a top quality traditionally made Katana, I would suggest checking out the Bugei Trading Company.

I personally recommend their 1086 katana. One of my kendo instructors ( a woman ) had one made for about $2K ... and was able to halve a small anvil with it ... afterwards it was examined by a sensei from Tacoma ... who was also a Japanese “human national treasure” grade sword finisher ... he found no damage.

However, Bugei does invalidate the warrantee of any of their swords if used to chop an anvil ... heh.

Author ID: 1358 | 8/14/2006 09:23 AM CST | #68560


Katana. If you’ve recently won the lottery, you could do much worse than this one.

Author ID: 7985 | 8/14/2006 09:30 AM CST | #68561


+1 on the Bugei Trading Company swords.  An acquantance of mine does Kendo and Iado and he had one made.  It’s a beautiful, fully functional sword.  If I hit the lottery, I’m definitely getting a Katana from Bugei.

Author ID: 1644 | 8/14/2006 09:43 AM CST | #68562


I keep my Gerber Bowie tucked in between the mattress & box springs in the rare event that 8 rounds of .45 ACP won’t keep a goblin from climbing through my bedroom window.  It’s heavy enough to lop off an arm, yet you can still use it for sticking, if need be.

Given my druthers, for house cleaning duties I’d go with the gladius.  It edges out the kukhri only because it’s double-edged and has a sharp pointy end for goblin-poking.

Author ID: 7611 | 8/14/2006 10:45 AM CST | #68569


For indoor fighting, you want something that doesn’t require much of a wind-up-and-swing.  So that removes from consideration your cutlasses, sabers, and katanas.

A good kukri knife can take off somebody’s arm if you get a decent swing; and you barely need any room to swing it.  With a flick of the wrist you could cause grievous injury.  It’s not perfect for thrusting, but it works okay that way too.  Another nice thing about the kukri is, you don’t have to get in a fight to have use for it.  It’s better than a hatchet for preparing campfire fodder.  It’s also an excellent brush-clearing tool.

I know you don’t care for Cold Steel knives, but their kukri is really good.  I’ve used mine a lot, and it’s still scary sharp.  And man, I tell you, it’s DANGEROUS.

If you want something with a little more reach, look for a “yataghan” pattern bayonet for the old Remington Rolling Block.  That is a magical blade.  Of course, you can’t chop firewood with it.

Author ID: 7716 | 8/14/2006 11:01 AM CST | #68572


If you want to go cheap-and-nasty, a quality machete is effective. Certainly worked well enough in Rwanda (ugh).

Museum Replicas, Ltd makes good quality swords for the price, if you’re looking for a little more class. A cutlass of 24” or shorter blade length will do the trick. Not shown on those pages, but findable with their search button, is a classy looking Revolutionary War-era hanger (just search for “hanger.")

Author ID: 1256 | 8/14/2006 11:25 AM CST | #68574


(Mauser/Lee-Enfield/Garand) Bayonet.  Just keep it *sharp.*

Author ID: 6570 | 8/14/2006 11:35 AM CST | #68575


There’s plenty of choices out there, a blade for every style and temperament.  But the proposed cutlass looks pretty good if you want to hack up the goblin and also talk like a pirate.  Hehe.

Author ID: 8495 | 8/14/2006 12:16 PM CST | #68577


dipnut opined:
For indoor fighting, you want something that doesn’t require much of a wind-up-and-swing.  So that removes from consideration your cutlasses, sabers, and katanas.

Incorrect.

Iado is the art of using a Katana or a Wakisashi indoors in close quarters. There are plenty od practitioners and schools out there.

Author ID: 1358 | 8/14/2006 12:24 PM CST | #68578


Kim:

If you do no other good thing for yourself this year, get to know Alex(ander Ian Scott) Cameron at http://www.wildhighlanders.com .  If there’s another man more after your heart than him, I wouldn’t know it; and he is one of the last of the ancient Glasgow Swordmaker’s Guild.

Author ID: 7988 | 8/14/2006 12:33 PM CST | #68581


Is Howard Clark still making blades for Bugei?  If so, they are superb!  A wakazashi made by Mr. Clark (or even a tanto) would make a fine close-quarters weapon.

Author ID: 803 | 8/14/2006 12:43 PM CST | #68582


I fenced (poorly) in college, but that gives me little standing in the subject of sword fighting.  Fencing has about as much in common with sword fighting as Olympic freestyle pistol has with gunfighting.

Here’s a piece by Hank Reinhardt, an expert on swords: http://www.thearma.org/essays/nobest.htm

He seems to second the choice of a wakazashi or hanger (cutlass).  A katana or saber would be too long for indoors and a rapier wouldn’t have an edge to deter grabbing the blade (severed fingers?).

Author ID: 7211 | 8/14/2006 01:00 PM CST | #68583


I am not an expert in knife fighting, but I sold such for a couple of months and learned the following tips from the manager (who appeared to know his stuff):
- Tanto Tip.  It is far better for Thrusts and will likely penetrate a kevlar vest without gettting hung up.
- Convex curve only.

I believe most Katanas fit this description

These both apply to a knife/sword you wish to retain for repeated use.  A concave blade curve (think of a sythe or more extreme, a sickle) will cause much more damage because it draws into the target.  It tends to be a b**ch to get out.

Of all of the swords we sold only three were suitable for anything but display.

I don’t know if Cold Steel has a katana, but they did have a rather wicked Cutlass-like sword.  No Tanto tip however.

BTW: A tanto tip is one which has a sharp inflection in the edge.  It is not like a kitchen knife or any ordinary sword edge at the tip.  Kabar (the USMC knife guys) have a Tanto tip version available.  This might be a good compromise as a dual purpose (weapon and utility knife) - but it is not a sword.

Author ID: 8131 | 8/14/2006 01:09 PM CST | #68584


I’ve always hated tanto tips… on working knives.

For stabbing someone, I imagine they’re pretty good.

But then again, I’ve long considered knives/swords/pikes/etc. to be a great way to keep clear of a nasty until you can get to a gun. (And I say this as a medieval recreationist, so it’s not like I haven’t carried the bulky, annoying things around, hacked inanimate objects with them, thrown them at targets, hit people with the wooden/rattan versions, etc.

Honestly, a sword is the most annoying thing to carry around all day. They do nothing but get in the way, even if you carry them as God intended, on a baldric. At least you can lean on a spear, and a dane-ax is good for scratching your back...)

Author ID: 7510 | 8/14/2006 02:00 PM CST | #68587


As for what to look for....  cheap price means a cheap sword

folded steel
Full Tang
fully wrapped handle (fancy decorations or slick materials make them hard to hold onto)

Celtic swords are short and easy to swing and are double sided
Katanas (Japanese) are slightly curved, single sided and come in varying lengths, but are fairly short and light
both of these swords can be wielded with one hand.

With any fighting blade, the object is to cut the opponent many times.  Heavy swords are great for that “one” hit, but getting that one shot is difficult, especially in an enclosed environment.  Long samurai type swords are excellent, but require a lot of area to use them.  Most Samarai carried an additional sword called the Wakizashi, which was a size above the tanto blade and shorter than the full length katana blade.

For home defense I prefer weapons like the escrima which is basically a short piece of bamboo.  The proper size is from your wrist to your elbow.  They are awesome for striking nerve points which will disable your advesary, quickly.  Some would put small razors near the tip to cause their opponents to bleed.  The superficial cuts bleed profusely and sting a lot causing the opponent to lose focus.  The blades also make your opponent, less likely to grab for the weapon.  The lightness of the weapon makes it easy to swing and the resilience of bamboo (or ratan) makes it very durable.

Author ID: 8606 | 8/14/2006 03:23 PM CST | #68589


“thwey were making some very usable carbon steel short swords, nordic double headed axes both short and long handled, about ten pounds weight, easy to sharpen looks nice on the wall fits the hand very well. stand by to repael borders and sail on. “

Ten pounds is far too heavy for a close-quarters sword. 2-3 pounds is what you want.

Author ID: 1256 | 8/14/2006 03:39 PM CST | #68591


I have some practice and skill with pre-firearm hand weapons, and my favorite for close-quarters combat is the gladius.  Don’t go for a single-edged sword, it only works one direction and indoors you won’t have room to swing anything longer.  It’s top choice.  The kukri, bowie, cutlass are all good but they have half the sharp bits.  Yes, you can twist your arm around swing them from different directions, but as your opponent I always know you’ll have to do that.

On the other hand- don’t laugh- fencing weapons are good for indoors.  They are only for thrusts, which will be the most likely type of attack you can make in a house, but they are really good at them.  They are fast and hard to see.  Their disadvantage it that they take some skill and practice to use well and hit a vital area.  A baseball bat with two edges is more instinctive and tolerant of poor aim.

A short spear ain’t too shabby either.  About 4’ long for use with two hands.  Think of the bayonnett.  They worked well for the Zulus.  If for some reason you can’t have a gun, a solid, 4’ sharp stick is a decent weapon.

Author ID: 8605 | 8/14/2006 03:48 PM CST | #68592


Update on the Minneapolis Guy

Being from Burnsville (Mpls suburb), a few things you should know…

1. The goblins who broke into the house had a gun.
2. One of the goblins reached for the sword first.
3. Our hero jumped into action by trying to grab the sword for himself.
4. The sword (cheap?) broke in half in the ensuing struggle.
5. Our hero took his broken half of the sword and proceeded into engage in an adrenalin induced attack for his life and began to flail away wildly at any and every thing in front of him including the gun wielding goblin.
6. He was badly wounded himself in the foray.

Morel of story:  I’ll stick with my loaded revolver and hollow points.

(Gotta hand it to our hero though, he defiantly has a pair of stones. And they are huge.  And covered with hair.)

Author ID: 8603 | 8/14/2006 03:53 PM CST | #68593


Why would you want a sword when you have a shotgun?

I’d like to point out that edged weapons are skill based, to a very large degree.  Since I’m unwilling to get my fat ass down to the dojo and unable to find an instructor who knows what he’s doing and who isn’t nuts, I’m keeping my shotgun at hand.  That being my case, and I suspect the same is true for others here at Kim’s happy home, I would use the Japanese short sword to repel invaders.  Mine is made of stainless steel, sharp enough to do some damage and is a throw away blade.  When I break it off inside some goblin, I won’t feel much loss.  When the local constabulary finally arrives at the scene of the carnage, they are welcome to confiscate my little pig sticker and do as they like with it.  If they bust it before (or if) I get it back, big deal.  Think about your reaction if you stab a goblin and the fat slob falls on your pride ‘n joy, snapping it in half.  Or Officer Friendly informs you that your $1500 piece of cutlery is evidence and is comming with him.

Again, since I don’t know sword fighting and don’t care to learn, all I’m planning to do is wind up and belt some fool.  I don’t need a thousand dollar piece of hardware to do that.

Author ID: 7528 | 8/14/2006 04:01 PM CST | #68594


Nothing wrong with a model 1897 trench shotgun with bayonet.

Author ID: 5639 | 8/14/2006 04:37 PM CST | #68595


Kim:

Note 1:  I graduated magna cum laude with degrees in history and classical studies, both focussed on military technology history, and a master’s in Mediaeval history.  I’ve been studying swords since I was 8, and they’ve been my day job for years.  Albion Swords once offerred me a job making swords, actually (which I turned down because it was $1200/mo, and the lowest rent in town was $600/mo)

People who have suggested Albion are dead on.  They are bar none the best production swords in the world.  $$$ though.  Christian Fletchers are also good, but if you seriously want a combat-capable sword for the least amount of money, you want an Atrim by Angus Trim.  Ugly, but sharp, strong and well-made.  Others have recommended Medieval Replicas, but I would recommend you steer clear - I have been to their showroom, handled their stuff, and it is absolute crap, all of it.  A wakizashi has been suggested several times, and this would also be a very good choice.  Bugei was suggested, and they are an excellent company.  Whatever you decide on, you want something capable of stabbing.  I have tried both methods, and the thrust really is far more effective than the cut, and surprisingly easier as well.

Finally, as others have pointed out, skill really is important here.  It is very easy to injure yourself with a sword ( I have scars).  Full-size swords, with blades 28” and longer require a lot of space to swing, more than you’ll find in most homes.  Shorter swords like the wakizashi and gladius are a great idea.

Anyway, if you go through with it, let us know.  I’m interested to see what you get.

Author ID: 7579 | 8/14/2006 05:09 PM CST | #68596


Kim
As many have pointed out, a sword is a technique intensive weapon, best used by someone with adequate training and regular practice. That being said, a moderate length (15-24"), sharp pointed blade with a good edge as well, does have a definate place in your home defense inventory. If you have a shotgun you can grab, do so with both hands please. But if you are grabbing any form of pistol that you feel can be adequately controlled using the single handed method, a sword may not be amiss in the off hand. One advantage a sword has over firearms is that you are less likely to unintentionally do harm to anyone in the next room, or even the next building. Sometimes problematic with projectile weapons.
Of greatest importance is to remember that in the vast majority of cases it is far more effective to use the point and not the edge, thus swinging is undesirable and room for swinging is unnecessary to a great extent. A swing takes time and preparation, is more easily blocked, and opens your body up indefensibly during the backswing. Keeping the point between you and your assailant, means he can’t charge you without skewering himself. In that position the slightest twitch of your wrist repositions the likely impact area of the point by as much as feet, thus rendering it almost impossible to block without a proper shield, and the lunge is such a quick and nearly effortless procedure as to be virtually impossible to defend against, when properly done. With proper technique it can also be repeated exceedingly quickly, and delivered to a host of disparate localities in a mere heartbeat. A sharp edge is best for discouraging your assailant from grasping the blade successfully, or for a quick block of an outside blow, where the goblin has had to take the time to wind up, and open up, to swing at you!
Hope this helps.

Author ID: 7964 | 8/14/2006 06:43 PM CST | #68602


In response to all the guys that keep bringing guns into this, chill.  We’re all reaching for the guns first.  But even the Marines carry and train to fight with knives.  Blades always work, they don’t jam, and a sword is at least equally intimidating to a pistol.  There may be readers that for some reason can’t own a gun and a sword might be an option.

Choosing one depends on your strength, mobility, abillity or willingness to get it.  Just keep in mind you won’t have much room to swing.  Thrusting is more effective and harder to defend against.  Light and fast is good.  If you’re strong, you can go a bit heavier.  Nothing longer than your arm.  And don’t laugh, you might even consider a small shield.  An intruder faced with a sword and shield might think you’re crazy and run for it!

Training and practice are even more important for a sword than for a gun, but as with a gun, that doesn’t mean it’s useless without it.  If all else fails, having a sharp, pointy piece of steel in your hand will be a comfort.

Author ID: 8605 | 8/14/2006 07:14 PM CST | #68606


Shorter sword good.  Easier to use, less likely to get hung up on something, including goblin.  Yataghan good, also wakazashi, gladius, kukhri cutlass. 

May I also recommend a 24 inch camp axe, which has as advantages that you are already familiar with it’s use, and is MUCH easier to defend in court.  Any prosecuting attorney will become sexually excited when confronted with a bloody foreign sword ("Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, just LOOK at this HORRIBLE Kukhri, made to LOP OFF A MAN"S ARM with one blow!  A GODLESS, HEATHEN blade, made by enemies of our country in a far off land with ONLY ONE PURPOSE!  TO KILL!").  If there is any question of the legality of your use, a sexy looking weapon that will get it’s picture in the paper could make the difference between a bored or politically ambitious PA deciding he could use some extra publicity.  And of course any newspaper reporter would love to write a series of articles on THE YATAGHAN MURDERS.  And do you really want your picture splashed on television as “CUTLASS KIM?”

A 32 oz framing hammer or a roofing axe would also be just as effective and intimidating and not so much “bust me” bait.

Swords are much more difficult to use than the movies show, and the number of people who know how to use them is far eclipsed by the number who only think they know how. 

That said, I have a fencing foil, bell removed, cut down to the solid part and sharpened, about 28 inches overall, kept next to my bed.  I’ve been fencing since 1972, both SCA and Olympic style, and I practice the old Spanish-Filipino fencing and stickfighting arts, and I have studied with people who have actually killed other men in war with swords, knives, spears, etc.  Not too many of those guys left.

One last thing.  If you think collecting guns is expensive, look up the prices of halfway decent antique swords.  And firearms are a lot of fun to shoot.

Author ID: 8471 | 8/14/2006 09:27 PM CST | #68612


“A short spear ain’t too shabby either.  About 4’ long for use with two hands. They worked well for the Zulus.”

Heheheheh… “That’s not a weapon, officer—that’s a souvenir from the land of my birth.”

You know, when I left South Africa, I never thought of bringing any of that stuff over with me: to us, it was all cheesy crap, and just about every kid in the neighborhood had an assegaai of some sort or another in his bedroom closet.

See the third picture down, here.

0 Author ID: 1 | 8/14/2006 09:58 PM CST | #68613


Training and practice are even more important for a sword than for a gun

I couldn’t disagree with this statement more.  Can you properly draw your gun and hit your target of a knife wielding assailent inside 20’?  Chances are you may survive but one thing is certain, you will most likely suffer some sort of wound.  Can you shoot as acurately with your left hand as you can with your right (if your shooting arm, hand or trigger finger is incapacitated)?  While laying on the ground?  On uneveaven terrain? Can you do a tactical reload shooting six shots from each clip in less then 3 seconds?  I can go on and on, but you get my point.  When the time comes you won’t be shooting at non-leathal targets at the range.

ANY weapon is only as good as the practitioner.

Author ID: 8603 | 8/14/2006 10:04 PM CST | #68614


First steps first:  “Perfect fight rests upon both edge and point.” You want a weapon which is capable of both strong cutting strikes and thrusting.

You’re looking at close-quarter combat, indoors; that puts a practical limit of ... oh, 24? 26? inches, roughly, unless you’re going to train *a lot*. (I wouldn’t feel constrained until 32? inches or so, but I’ve been training with swords and knives for decades.)

Many fine choices have been offered above; I’d settle upon the Bowie knife, or the cutlass.  The daisho combination that several of us have suggested are fine weapons, but are (IMHO) enthusiasts’ weapons, expert weapons. They’re also harder to carry concealed—did I mention that in Florida a CCW permit allows concealed Bowie carry as well as 1911?

The bowie knife can be had from a variety of suppliers, which have been mentioned above.  For training tools, I’d commend you to COL Dwight McLemore, who’s generally considered one of the finest exponents of the Bowie alive.  (The link not only has a nice interview, but links in turn to his two manuals, both of which I own.)

Another fine artist is Pete Kautz at Alliance Martial Arts.  I have trained with him, and let my son train with him; he is as sane and as capable as they come.

In the cutlass line, you might wish to talk to Scott Wilson of Darkwood Armory.  He currently has a very nice “Sinclair” baskethilt for sale (and here’s a picture to prove my point) at about 400.00 or so for a very simple finish.  Scott is known as a supplier of replicas to the historical fencing community, but he’s a martial artist who is expert with sharps; if you tell him you need it sharp, don’t try the edge when your package arrives with your thumb. 

Pete Kautz also trains in saber and cutlass, and (I believe) has some training DVDs for those weapons as well.

Another resource, which I can’t wait to see, is coming from Germany.  The OCHS school is releasing a DVD on 15th century messer combat—the “big knife” is VERY much like the cutlass, and the guys at OCHS do a superb job of teaching; their DVD on German longsword fight is one of the three best resources out there.  I have every reason to believe that the messer DVD will be equally fine.  Look for their release soon at Chivalry Bookshelf.

Finally, let me invite any of you with an interest in this sorta thing to the 7th International Western Martial Arts Weekend, Oct 13-15, in Lewisville TX.  I am honored to have been invited to be an instructor at this event.  (Enthusiasts will recognize the names of many of the other instructors and know why it’s an honor...)

If any of you contact Pete, or Scott, or speak to Brian Price at Chivalry Bookshelf, tell them Dr Bill sent you. *grins*

Author ID: 8274 | 8/14/2006 10:16 PM CST | #68615


<Typo>Can you do a tactical reload shooting six shots from each clip in less then 6 seconds?</typo> (My instructer could, and I’ve seen several Airmarshals (Akal Security) empty an entire clip in about 1 second...it sounds like one gunshot...they practice at least once a month and sometimes every week.  I go down there just to watch ‘em, they are amazing.)

Author ID: 8603 | 8/14/2006 10:24 PM CST | #68616


Oh, and bad on me for not reading carefully.  You already have some big knives. *grin* That being said, if you want more evil tricks insights on the use of the big knives, COL McElmore and Mr. Kautz are still my recommendations…

Author ID: 8274 | 8/14/2006 10:25 PM CST | #68617


Woodsmans Pal

Boker Smatchet

Junglee Modern Short sword

All the above are decent quality, all can be had for under $150.00. the Junglee is the only one considered a sword. I personally prefer the Smatchet for it’s versitality, and the Woodsmans Pal is a great tool, as well as somewhat intimidating.

Author ID: 8609 | 8/15/2006 12:30 AM CST | #68621


db doesn’t agree with my statement “Training and practice are even more important for a sword than for a gun”.  Allow me to clarify.  I mean in order to be able to kill with one.  A gun can be perfectly effective in a middle-of-the-night self-defense situation in the hands of someone that’s never even touched one before.  A sword is much harder to use well, requires at least some strength and skill and not a little courage to get close enough to the enemy to use it.

That’s why they call guns equalizers.

Author ID: 8605 | 8/15/2006 03:22 AM CST | #68625


And if you’re into pretty [read: $$$] as well as functional, look at Arms and Armor.  I have one of these, which, though long for indoors, is double-edged and sharp.  The Falchion or the Katzbalger may be more suitable.

Author ID: 8460 | 8/15/2006 10:08 PM CST | #68689


That big ol’ knife is good enough, Kim. Don’t go wasting money on a sword.

If you really want one, though, Angus Trim makes the best swords for your money.

Author ID: 7829 | 8/16/2006 07:07 AM CST | #68712


This story rocks.

And that pic of the Bowie knife and the 1911 (with the awsome grips) is giving me a woody.

Good thing there’s a gun show this weekend.

Author ID: 7253 | 8/16/2006 10:02 AM CST | #68752